Match of the week

Three surefire pairings for pinot noir
Most of the time, as you’ll have noticed, I feature the more offbeat wine pairings I’ve come across in my match of the week slot. This week I’ve been reminded of the virtue of some that seldom go wrong.
All involve pinot noir, surely one of the most food-friendly of reds. The first was at a sustainability event I co-hosted for New Zealand Winegrowers. My task was to pair five different grape varieties from sustainable wineries (which the vast majority in New Zealand are) with vegetarian dishes. The glorious 2010 Felton Road Bannockburn pinot noir from Central Otago which was showing beautifully, was perfect with some creamy mushroom-topped toasts with a crisp parmesan wafer. (That vintage is available at Berry Bros & Rudd for £350 a case in bond - you'll find more recent vintages elsewhere for £30-35.)
The second was at The Gainsborough in Bath where I was tasting wines from another Kiwi producer, Gladstone in the Wairarapa region of New Zealand (just next door to Martinborough). In this instance the wine was their 2013 pinot noir, a younger, more elegant wine with incredibly pure fruit, and the food a dish of roast pork loin with mushrooms, black pudding and fresh broad (fava) beans. (York Wines have it for £17.95 which is a bargain.)
And finally - closer to home at the Three Gables restaurant* in Bradford-on-Avon - a reminder how brilliant duck is with pinot noir - the twist in this case being that the pinot was Brazilian - the impressively silky 2014 Valduga Indidate pinot noir which is currently selling off the wine list for a very reasonable £28 a bottle or £8.50 a glass. That's on sale currently at Selfridges for £14.99 and imported by Berkmanns.
Useful information, I hope, because sometimes, rather than starting with the food, you've got a special wine you want to enjoy with something that will show it at its best.

Duck with figs and Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir
I know duck and Pinot is a bit of a no-brainer but this was such a great dish and such a stellar wine that it's worth revisiting. (Coupled with the fact that some of you may be having duck for Christmas.)
It was at the restaurant at the Port Phillip Estate on the Mornington Peninsula where I spent a day and a half last week. (Not at the restaurant, I hasten to add - in the region). It has the most amazing views over the vineyards to the Bass Strait.
The dish was a nicely rare duck breast served with confit duck made into a crisp duck cake, poached figs and a spiced duck glaze obviously designed to complement the Kooyong Pinots.
The wine we were drinking was the 2010 Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir, one of a number of single vineyard bottlings, a superbly structured yet opulent, cherry-fruited pinot that was perfectly pitched for the dish.
Kooyong and Port Phillip were nominated combined wineries of the year in James Halliday's 2012 wine guide.
Unfortunately the Ferrous seems to be out of stock currently in its main stockist Great Western Wine. I'm not surprised.
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